Ecuador - Quito, Chimborazo and Cotopaxi
The Galapagos sea legs last for a few days but fortunately you quickly lose them in Quito. From sea level to the highest capital in the world at nearly 3,000 meters (La Paz, while administrative capital, is not the legal capital of Bolivia - that's Sucre) you notice quickly enough. The thin air, cooler temperature and mountains are a complete opposite. The colors, tastes, music and smells are reminiscent of Peru or northern Argentina. Although the foothills of the Andes run into Colombia, this Andean culture is much less present there. The Incas constructed a huge road network that ran across the core of the Andes mountains from northern Argentina to roughly Quito. Therefore, cities such as Cuzco and Quito are more related than Guayaquil (Ecuador's largest city and port) and Quito. Guayaquil, in turn, has much more in common with the huge Peruvian capital of Lima with which there was abundant sea trade. Quito's location is fairly unique. Because of its altitude but also because the city leans against the equator and is directly surrounded by 14 partially active volcanoes. The downside is that the city is hit with some regularity by earthquakes and ash rains. Temperatures are quite moderate year-round which earns Quito the nickname "city of eternal spring”.
'Welcome home' I am told upon entering the hotel in Quito. Nothing nicer than a home away from home. Although more of a marketing ploy (hotels do plenty for good reviews) this is literally a hidden gem opposite a dirty, busy street. A colonial-style oasis with a large terrace and stylish breakfast room. The walking tour of the city center today is surprisingly good. With a small group we set out to explore the old, colonial center (first on the Unesco World Heritage List) that was the second largest in South America after Havana. It was mostly Spanish settlers from Andalusia who governed the colony from here. For that reason, you see a fusion of Spanish, Moorish and indigenous elements in the old buildings and churches. The central square (the big market) is great and we taste fresh fruit and chocolate. The cocoa from the coastal region of Ecuador can rightly be called the best in the world. It is a lot less bitter than the version from the Amazon and Africa. Therefore, a piece of 95% or even 100% chocolate still tastes mild. Add chili, sea salt, cacao nibs or coffee and you get the most delicious chocolate you have ever tasted.
With two young Brits and a Pole from Gdansk, we enjoy a simple lunch at the foot of the Chimborazo volcano. All four have the ambition of conquering this extinct but massive volcano. None of us would even come close to the summit that night. With the two young Brits, I had fitted the necessary mountain clothing in Riobamba. With the discarded shoes, jackets and sweaters, we must make our way up the mountain well-equipped that night. It is rattled off, whereas good clothing makes the difference between a successful summit attempt or not. The two Brits, in my opinion, have no idea what they are getting themselves into. They are athletic young guys, but the Chimborazo is different than walking up Ben Nevis. For the third - and last - time that week, I am driven into the national park to the base of the climb at 5,000 meters altitude. From base Riobamba over two hours but the drive never gets boring. The closer I get, the more awe the volcano evokes. The vast lava fields, the snowy summit and the vicunas walking around. When Von Humboldt was the first European to climb the volcano, it was thought to be the highest mountain in the world. From sea level, this later turned out to be Mt. Everest. Because of the somewhat egg-shaped earth, though, measured from the core, this is still Chimborazo. So, this is the point on earth closest to the sun, about three kilometers closer than Everest.
All four of us had paid a fair amount of money upfront to no more than a day-and-night long ascent and descent with a guide. Good mountain guides are rare, and certainly those who also speak a word of English. This does matter on a technical climb where you are tied together with rope. In the event of a fall, someone must plant their ice axe in the ground or snow to prevent further downfall. Most mountain guides are freelancers and (locally) sometimes have a somewhat questionable reputation. Admittedly competent in the mountains but without putting too much effort into their customers. Some even wear you out on purpose in order to get home faster. Mountain guides can be rather blunt, after all, in the mountains there is a need for safety and thus clarity. Not too much nuance fits that. My guide doesn't seem too eager today either and is off to a slow start. Once he arrives at the last high camp, he is mainly interested in his sleeping place and food. More guides appear that night and here they command respect. Without much sleep, they are - with their client - busy with ropes, harnesses and crampons. And that’s before a huge trek ahead of them. The two Brits start from a lower camp and we don't see them again that night, they have turned around before the high camp. In the pitch-black night, we see the light of small towns dozens of miles away. Above us the stars, below and above the mountain the moving head lights of other climbers.
Together with the Pole and his guide, we begin our "summit attack" around midnight. It is a mystery to me how this taciturn Pole - who looks to me like a dock worker - manages to travel around all by himself. He really doesn't speak a word of English or Spanish at all. Yet, he does get a little farther that night than I do. Around three o'clock I see him plopping down in his sleeping bag in the tent. I am already passed out in bed by then. Although I arrived at the camp very energetic, I had forgotten that acclimatizing also means sleeping at a lower place than the highest reached point that day. During the night I get more and more nauseous with a throbbing headache. I hope for a miracle and want to give it a go anyway. Reluctantly, I work down a few cookies and cups of hot tea. The guide helps me into my harness and with the crampons. I want to say a few more things but right words don’t come to me. The guide ties the harnesses together with rope and off we go. In perfect conditions, it is windless and cloudless. For half an hour on the trail, I feel unsure along the steep precipices that are not even visible in full in the dark. At some point, enough is enough and I tell the guide we are turning around. Five minutes later he sees why as my stomach contents turn over on the trail. In the awesome dawn we see six small dots moving atop the glacier. They are the only ones of about 30 climbers to reach the summit. The reward must be a spectacular view. On adrenaline alone, they need to descend for another four hours or so.
Cotopaxi is the smaller brother of Chimborazo. Known as the perfect symmetrical volcano and at least as famous. Climbing Cotopaxi is equivalent to dancing on the volcano. It is one of the most active volcanoes in the world. In recent weeks, the volcano also made itself heard, bubbling out smoke and ash. A climb to the top is forbidden and unwise. The surrounding volcanic field (a national park) has a Moon-like appearance with stone dust and large boulders. In some places, dozens of layers can be seen on top of each other. Like the growth rings of a tree, these represent every eruption that has occurred. Volcanoes play a crucial role for life on Earth. They are like valves that can release heat when needed. In extreme ice ages (where large parts of the earth were covered by glaciers), magma could flow out from the layers below the earth's surface and help warm up the earth. Today we can walk up to the impressive, but for years receding glaciers. A little lower, a mountain bike takes us straight back to the hotel.
The Pan-American highway is 200 meters down from the hotel. Bus stops work a little different here. In fact, these are found only in the city centers. I am dropped off by the hotel owner and told to catch the bus a little further down the road. There is nothing that even remotely resembles a stop. The traffic thunders on and on. You have to first recognize the right bus, then wave it down and hope it slows down and stops in time. This is doesn’t work at all. To avoid standing on the highway for an hour, it is better to wave off every bus and then hope it is the right one. The plan works and miraculously another Dutch person steps in a minute later. You have to watch your belongings in Ecuador and that is especially true on the road when you have all your luggage on you. As a backpacker, you are at your most vulnerable here. Ecuador is one of the richer countries of Latin America and mainly exports many commodities such as oil, cocoa, fruits and flowers. But the gap between rich and poor is immense. Half the population lives on a few dollars a day. In addition, the pandemic has hit the country hard. There is much poverty on the streets and hotel and restaurant doors remain closed to keep out wandering, begging figures. Pickpocketing can never be justified but can be explained. The bus rides - especially if you travel alone - are not very relaxing partly because of this.
Recent Posts









