Galápagos Islands
Spaghetti legs. A stomach turning over. I had forgotten what it was like to spend time at sea. I had lost it once on a small boat off the waters of South Africa. Now, we are sailing around the Galapagos Islands. A group of young volcanic islands far removed from any island or mainland, similar to Hawaii. It is a strong brand that stands for adventure as well as unique flora and fauna. But also for the theory of evolution and the name Darwin that will forever be associated with the archipelago. It is mainly American and British tourists who travel down here. Out of a population of only 30,000, a quarter of a million foreign tourists visit the archipelago every year. Ecuador is already remarkably pricey but the Galapagos Islands are on another level. One hundred dollars per incoming traveler alone goes to protect the national park (which includes the entire archipelago). And this is much needed. Some native animals and plants species have already gone extinct. Mainly due to humans and animals (dogs, cats, goats, pigs) as well as uninvited guests (rats and mice) who traveled on the ships and caused real havoc. For visitors from colder places, the sun is the greatest enemy. On the equator, relatively closer to the sun and on the water, you have to be careful not to be grilled alive.
We have been snorkeling in the water for a while, looking for sea cucumbers, sea turtles, penguins, sea lions, starfish and schools of fish. There is a strong current in the flooded "caldera" (collapsed crater) and as we scour the rocky shore, we are vigilant to the swell. From about thirty feet we are constantly being watched by two dinghies with crew. Today I swam a little farther than the rest and am starting to get cold. Then I turn around and find myself facing a shark. This one is bigger than the one-meter baby sharks and the one-and-a-half-meter whitetip reef sharks we had seen over the past few days. Curious, he or she takes notice on what intruder is in her territory. It is a Galapagos shark that grows up to three meters and this one is at least as tall as I am (1.95m). Still, I don't flinch and for a few seconds our eyes are crossed. Then I look above the water to see where everyone else is. Back underwater, the shark has disappeared. I am alone now and a little apprehensive. This guy was not schedules for today and could emerge from my back at any moment. At the same time, I realize that the crew don't just submerge us with perilous sharks. Nearby, they are diving for the much larger whale shark and hammerhead shark. The vast majority of sharks are completely harmless to us; we are not their natural prey. In fact, hundreds of thousands are slaughtered every year for shark fin soup. Just like the hunting of sea turtles (from which a so-called beneficial effect is said to emanate), this is strictly forbidden (in many places). The (brief) moment with the shark will stay with me. What a mighty beast.
Back on the boat, the regular ritual of a hot shower and sunbathing on top of the deck unfolds. Birds invariably hitching on the wind stream and hoping for some food leftovers thrown overboard. For days we are far from any form of civilization. On one side the rocky lava coasts with sparse vegetation and pearly white beaches. On the other, nothing but water. No rock for thousands of miles all the way to Papua New Guinea. Gazing at the pitch-black night sky with this thought is mesmerizing and the full moon still gave a little light. But tonight it is overcast and truly pitch black. I think of the solo sailors who cross the ocean on their own and reflect that I could never do this. In my opinion, you need steely nerves for this. Especially when you sail on or around equator like we do now. In the 'doldrums' it may not be as haunting but it can be windless for days. Then, as a sailing yacht, you are just bobbing around. On the bridge we are allowed to watch with the captain how the GPS equipment indicates exactly 0.00.000 degrees.
The atmosphere on board has turned. It was jolly good fun the first day and we pictured ourselves on a luxury yacht with more crew than people on board. It hardly ever rains here and the sun was so bright in the sky. Underwater, we had already seen all kinds of beautiful marine life and the beaches were tropical. Most of my travel companions, like me, had booked a last minute and were sold a comfortable cruise with all kinds of amenities. For the sake of efficiency, we sail at night so we could set out in a fresh new environment in the morning. But it was a pretty wobbly, turbulent first night and in the morning not much is spoken over breakfast. I feel very bad all day and strongly consider aborting the trip that afternoon and staying ashore in the last village ashore. Just the thought of going back on board turns my stomach. We are literally stuck with each other for another week, and I find it hard to imagine how this ship of over thirty meters is going to somewhat stay stable in the water. The waters may be a little more turbulent this season than the rest of the year, but apparently you get used to it because for the crew, it's a day like any other. Unlike most cruise ships, this yacht has cabins for solo travelers so there is no extra surcharge for the more usual twin rooms. On board, an elderly Brit and I are the only solo travelers. Where the rest are adventurous twenty-somethings, thirty-somethings and forty-somethings, this man arrives in a three-piece suit on the first sweltering hot day. It is as if he has blown over from a Mr. Bean episode. He's a bit out of place also because he doesn't join the daily snorkeling trips. But he's well-traveled, finds his niche and tells a good story. Apart from a Swiss couple and myself, they are all British. The politeness is pleasant but I am annoyed critical questions are never asked and everything is taken for granted.
Our Ecuadorian guide has clearly done this hundreds of times, it comes across as a bit tedious. Nevertheless, we are impressed by his extensive knowledge about the origin of the islands and the flora and fauna present. Because there are no bees on the islands, pollination takes place entirely by the wind. Pioneer plants such as cacti and saltwater plants eventually nestle in the lava rock or along the beaches. Things can move quickly from there. The bulk of the development of both flora and fauna has "only" taken place in the last 50,000 years. Darwin published his magnum opus more than 25 years after his voyage with the Beagle. A trip during which, incidentally, he spent more time on land than at sea. On board, he often suffered from severe seasickness. Although he formulated the core of his theory of evolution much earlier than "On the Origin of Species" was published, his ideas were very controversial for that time and age. The finches taken from the various Galapagos islands were renamed "Darwin Finches" but without the captain's notes this would never have happened. Darwin did initially not notice any differences. Only at a much later stage did it transpire from the captain's logbook that the sampled finches differed from island to island. They had evolved separately in the "niche" of the Galapagos Islands. For example, the size of the beak differed from island to island depending on the nuts and seeds present there. And so the theory of evolution was further substantiated.
Speaking of birds, the 'Blue Footed Booby' is clearly one of the more colorful inhabitants. This Blue Footed Booby is only found in a very limited part of the world. This bird too is very tame because it has not evolved much, if at all, with natural enemies on land. Like the giant tortoise, it has become something of a mascot for the Galapagos. They remind me of the cute Puffins in Iceland. Evolutionarily, the blue feet seem completely useless but appearances can be deceiving. They play an important role in mate selection. The blue color comes from pigments they ingest by eating fish. The birds dive from dozens of meters to 25 meters deep underwater. The pigments from their diet act as antioxidants and help immune function. On the beach we sometimes encounter more unusual birds; American seventy-somethings in snorkel suits. It all looks a bit awkward. Nice that they still do this and we exchange cruise experiences.
Because of its very isolated location, few migratory birds are found on the islands. Nevertheless, many birds are able to cross the distance and some end up staying. But how did flamingos, penguins and iguanas ever end up here? No one knows for sure; it remains speculation. Arguably, iguanas washed up on driftwood and evolved into the world's only marine iguanas. These little dragon-like reptiles have no natural enemies on land and you could easily lift them up by their tails. As cold-blooded creatures, they warm up collectively in the sun. Unlike their brothers on land, once warmed up they feast on algae in the water - like strict vegetarians. An example of how these dragons have adapted to life underwater are their kidneys. The water around Galapagos is saltier than in many other places and the kidneys of these marine iguanas filter this salt after which they blow their nose once in a while to get rid of it. It is comical to see how sea lions sometimes chase the iguanas. The sea lions also have absolutely no fear of humans and come ashore to take a nap. In the water they are playful and even bold by swimming around you and approaching up to a few inches. Unfortunately, they are also sought after for their beautiful and strong fur. The flamingos are descended from the Chilean species and I didn't know that their pink fur comes from the pink hulls of shrimp they eat. The Galapagos penguins are cute and the only penguins in the Northern Hemisphere. A gland in their body produces an oily substance which deposits on their wings making them look like walking oilmen. Underwater, they shoot by at over 20 mph.
The giant tortoises deserve further explanation. Like the "Darwin finches," they were central to his thesis that species develop separately in isolation (e.g. on an island) according to environmental factors, prey, natural enemies and available food. They capture our imagination in part because of the extremely high ages they reach. With the passing of "Lonesome George" in 2012 (who it was said to have been taken by Darwin), the Galapagos giant tortoise became extinct. A specimen named Harriet reached an age of about 176 years and these animals could weigh nearly 450 pounds. Subspecies continued to exist and are now all classified (due to external differences) as separate species of giant tortoises. Nevertheless, the giant tortoises were close to extinction. In fact, similar to how the dodo met its end on the island of Mauritius. Ships and especially the whaling industry took the turtles on board by the tens of thousands each year and piled them upside down in the hold. Reason for this was very simple: the animals could go up to a year without food and even water. Old age is often explained by this unique metabolism (as well as slow movement). The meat was welcome food on the long voyages across the oceans. When - before there was electricity - it was also discovered that the meat and eggs were high in oil, they were slaughtered to light the streets of Quito. As if that were not bad enough, dogs, rats and goats wreaked havoc on the islands by either eating the eggs or out competing the turtles for food. With sophisticated breeding programs and the establishment of a national park, the population was protected and rebuilt.
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