Japan

After a mere three weeks in the land of the rising sun, I have yet to see a trash bin, apart from in the hotel room. Out on the streets and in public areas, there are none to be found. You would expect the streets to be a filthy mess. On the contrary, it is the cleanest country there is. At most hotels and also restaurants, you exchange your shoes for slippers at the door. Megacities like Tokyo are spotless; there is little – if any - trash at all on the streets. Everyone is expected to take their trash back home with them. Where it is then separated and collected. You don't see or notice any of this. As a Westerner you have to get used to carrying your dirty plastic waste in your bag all day. Risking a penalty, throwing away garbage is discouraged. As is smoking. Smoking is not allowed in public – at risk of penalties. These are some of the "harsh" pronounced rules. Then follows a multitude of etiquette and unwritten rules. Quite wonderful, as it is a culture shock for many visitors. Mostly in a positive sense; one is impressed by Japanese discipline and attention to detail. Great to witness the attention to detail. From all sorts of personal tools and "hacks" to handwritten notes on how to use a piece of equipment. Better avoid the toilets, it's a real hassle with all kinds of buttons and electronics. If you don’t watch out, you’ll be sprayed from all sides (although sometimes they have heated covers). The manners, discipline and attention to detail I have not yet seen to this extent anywhere else. Japanese seem to realize that if each of the 125 million (and declining because of aging population) does his or her part, society will be better off. And all those millions of acts do make a difference; it feels like a modern Western country with a culture 180 degrees opposite from Northern Europe and the US.

Politeness knows no boundaries in Japan. It's form and etiquette but rather pleasant. This does make it more difficult to strike up a "normal" conversation and the language barrier does not help. I find the Japanese somewhat reserved. I don't think it is a lack of interest or curiosity, but they just leave you alone. No one to come over for a chat or show any interest. Hence, Japan is popular among introverted travelers; you are left alone. I do find this to be a downside of traveling through Japan. Especially after the last Olympics, most Japanese do speak a word of English, but not wholeheartedly. They seem rather ashamed of their poor English. As true perfectionists, they prefer to do something with complete devotion or not at all. You won't easily meet an indifferent Japanese. Even the traffic controller or train conductor takes his job deadly seriously. Then what comes across - ironically - as rude to me is being refused at restaurants because they don't have a good command of English or otherwise think they can't serve you well. That refusal is indirect, by stating, for example, that the restaurant is full or only works with advance reservations.

I think the comparison of Japan to England (also an island state) versus China and the U.S. is quite apt. The contrast between politeness and perfectionism on the one hand versus speed and results oriented on the other. In my opinion, it must be oppressive to be Japanese. People sometimes outcompete each other in politeness. This can be hilarious and one can have a laugh at it. In particular, letting each other go ahead at a door, stairs or elevator. In one bus ride, the driver manages to avoid an almost certain collision. He holds his arm in front of the passengers standing next to him as if he might still catch them. It is totally not his fault but at the next stop he personally walks into the back of the bus to apologize to everyone (!). I prefer to travel by train but with such a bus driver I will gladly get on board again. In public transport - but also elsewhere - still a lot of mouth masks. The hygiene standard is probably a bit over the top. Really everything is packed in small plastic bags. In some hotels you get a new bag hung on your door every day full of one-time disposables like a razor, cotton swabs and even pajamas. Disinfectants and wet towelettes are everywhere in restaurants. Above all, it's a lot of (unnecessary) plastic and paper.

On the streets nothing but fuel-efficient Toyotas, Suzuki’s, Honda's, Nissan's, Daihatsu's and Subaru's. Japan has virtually no oil and gas reserves and must import all fuels. After the oil crisis in the 1970s, things changed. No huge SUVs here but small, economical cube boxes (where exactly they hide the engine is a mystery to me). One can argue about taste but they hardly make any noise. And of course, there is no honking. You have to be careful though; the steering wheel is on the right and people drive on the left (just like in the UK). Japan is - unfortunately - not a cycling country at all. Koga Miyata may be originally Japanese, but I haven't been able to discover one meter of bike lane in this country. That's a real shame, because the few cyclists you see ride on the sidewalk or in between cars.

The trains and subway, on the other hand, are great. As with soda vending machines (where bottles of cold and hot tea are sold) and payment machines in stores, the transaction here is done by machine. Japan of course has the "bullet" trains (Shinkansen) but also many small regional commuter trains. One time it's just one wagon and I stand at the front pretty much next to the driver for the entire ride. It's confusing, all these different lines and exceptions. But there are rarely delays and you don't need a car to travel around Japan. Tokyo is mostly very big and crowded. If you like shopping you are in the right place here. There is no end to huge shopping malls with "fast fashion" and electronics. In large halls, dozens of young Japanese sit side by side behind large gaming machines. A Westerner is no longer a novelty here. There are many tourists, the mysterious and quirky Japan holds appeal. They are not the typical backpackers of South America or Southeast Asia. Although you can travel and stay relatively cheaply in one of the many capsule hotels. However, here you are locked in a two-square-meter cell without any window! Hotels are fairly pricey in Tokyo, but no more expensive than Amsterdam. And eating out is cheaper than Holland or Belgium. The cuisine disappoints me - as a vegetarian. Again, a barrage of unwritten rules for eating out that you get used to by trial and error. Use chop sticks and do not leave any food on your plate. Tipping is rude, but you get used to that quickly enough. It is mainly a lot of meat. And fish. Vegetarian options are rather limited, you really have to look out for them. There are vegetarian options but less than, for example, in China or Taiwan where there is more tofu on offer. 

What a mesmerizing mountain mount Fuji is. An inactive volcano and the highest peak in Japan, right around the corner from Tokyo. No wonder it attracts a lot of people on weekends. Up to the tree line it is beautiful hiking through the forest. The mountain's sacred status is reflected in the many shrines or altars and places of worship along the way. Japan's original religion, Shintoism, had many characteristics of a pagan religion. Afterwards, it became more and more intertwined with Buddhism. No snow on the mountain in the summer months and that is the season Fuji is climbed then. By thousands at a time and it is quite crowded. In early October it is quiet and although it is officially not allowed and strongly discouraged, it is condoned. It is a long climb but without any risks. The altitude (3,767m) is doable for almost anyone. In the winter months it is a different story because there is a lot of snow. You then need more equipment and layers of clothing. The day Simon from Amiens and I reach the top, the weather is beautiful with gorgeous views. The wind chill is -15 degrees at the summit, mainly due to the icy gusts. We are still in pretty good shape and decide to race down to catch the last bus. Not necessarily needed (we can also share a cab) but feasible and practical. An hour and 1,500 meters down, the tank is empty but we are on the bus. For Simon it was all a bit too much, he cramps up and faints in the bus. Fortunately, he is still conscious and lying on the floor he slowly recovers. He went a little too deep today.

The journey continues to Hakuba in Nagano province. The area is better known as the "Japanese Alps”. Scattered throughout this area were the 1998 Winter Olympics. This is still recognizable everywhere, especially in this small town also known as the "Chamonix of Japan”. Especially in the winter months, skiers and snowboarders from all over the world descend get down here for fresh powder. In the summer, the hiking is beautiful. Even now in autumn, conditions are excellent and there is only the first layer of snow on the peaks. It is mainly well-equipped Japanese seniors who go out there. The ski lifts serve to drop off hikers in the mid-mountains to take a shot at some of the peaks from there. Some beautiful walks follow through forests full of foliage and past small lakes to the snow-white peaks. Back in the village, the young Japanese working in the hotels speak good English. They are winter sports enthusiasts awaiting the snow season.

It doesn’t get much more secure or safe as a traveler than in Japan. The South American habit of hands tightly on wallet and phone is slowly wearing off. At ATMs, I no longer look cautiously over my shoulders. A few times I see people knee down to pick up a lost dime from the street and return it to its rightly owner. Japan invariably appears in lists of safest countries to travel. The same applies to road safety. On the other hand, it's better not to come into contact with law enforcement. Although this is perhaps universal. The justice department has enormous powers and authority. Suspects who appear in court are invariably convicted; this conviction rate is 99.8% (!). Precisely because of this disturbing statistic, fallen from grace top executive Carlos Ghosn (Renault Nissan) planned his by now famous escape. In late 2019, he decided - while under house arrest - not to await any longer the allegations of fraud and self-enrichment. Hidden in a musical instrument case (with air holes), he was smuggled out of the country in a private flight with help from U.S. ex-Marines. The plan miraculously succeeded and Japan was making a fool for oneself. For now, Mr. Ghosn is safely back home in Lebanon, a country with no extradition treaty with Japan. Free, but without the privileges of the CEO of a multinational corporation.

Kyoto is a wonderful city, a breath of fresh air after Tokyo. Glass and concrete give way to greenery and wood. The city, with all its temples, looks rather relaxed. Although it is also teeming with tourists. Kyoto was close to being razed to the ground. The old capital was listed by the US to be the site of the first atomic bomb. The then U.S. Secretary of State could not bring himself to destroy the city of his honeymoon. Thus, the many pagodas, temples and houses with wooden facades still stand proudly. There are fewer high-rises, more greenery and the many narrow streets are scenic. Busy port city Osaka, a stone's throw away, is the opposite again. Modern and focused on dining and shopping. Residents here set themselves more clearly against traditional Japan.

"City of Peace" Hiroshima leaves quite a mark. The park and museum are well designed. When Nazi Germany capitulated in May 1945, no nuclear weapon existed. Various regimes were working feverishly on it, until then without any breakthrough. The "Manhattan Project" was set up partly out of fear that the Nazis were working on a powerful new weapon. Under Oppenheimer's watch, work progressed steadily at Los Alamos, although the first successful tests were not completed until after Germany's capitulation. Japan did not want to capitulate and did not agree to the demands as presented by the big three at Potsdam. Truman informed Stalin a day before the conference of the successful test of a new, powerful weapon. Stalin, however, thanks to his spies, had long known about it. His response was that it would only be a good thing if the war ended rather quickly. The idea of a demonstration bomb on a remote island was dismissed. Thus, Truman made the dramatic decision to deploy a nuclear weapon at a logistical and military hub. This decision was partly motivated as a deterrent to Russia in particular (as a harbinger of the cold war) but mainly because of the fierce Japanese resistance the U.S. Army encountered at Okinawa. A prolonged war with many losses was a doomsday scenario for the Americans. Hiroshima was thus wiped out, tens of thousands of civilians perished in a hellfire. Although the scale of the disaster reached Tokyo fairly quickly, (divided) Japan did not want to capitulate immediately and stuck to its conditions. The armed forces preferred to fight to the bitter end. Japan's main demand, preservation of "divinity of the emperor," must be understood in light of the nation-state or national identity so typical of the period. General Douglas MacArthur eventually forced Emperor Hirohito to renounce his "divinity" via a radio address (Japanese had never heard him speak before). Nonetheless, Hirohito (who was heavily involved in the war effort) was able to stay on and even paid an official visit to the Netherlands in 1971 (accompanied by the understandable protests).

In the niche of an isolated island, Japanese culture was able to maintain and develop its uniqueness. The culture remained intact for so long in part because there had never been (with the exception of the American occupation after WWII) a foreign occupier. Outside influences were kept at bay throughout the centuries. The Portuguese were the first Europeans on the scene and preyed on trade with the shoguns (local leaders). The conversion drive of Catholicism ultimately did not please the Japanese at all, and the Portuguese were therefore expelled from the country without pardon in 1639. Years before, the first contacts with Dutch trade missions were not considered unpleasant. More merchant than pastor, the religiously unassuming Dutch Protestants were more agreeable to the locals. The crafty Dutch merchants managed to fool the shoguns into believing that the rival English adhered to Catholicism. Because of this, and because the larger Papal armies were feared, only the Dutch were allowed to stay. So, trading post Decima was born, a tiny island in the harbor of Nagasaki in the deep south of Japan. From 1641 to 1859, this artificial, fan-shaped island of less than a hectare and a half was the only contact between the Western world and Japan, which was largely cut off from the outside world. The Dutch lived on Decima under strict restrictions. The small island (the size of Amsterdam's Dam Square) was accessible by only one bridge. Only a limited number (10 to 15) of Dutch people were allowed to stay on the island. With the exception of an annual visit to the shogun in Edo (present-day Tokyo), they were not allowed to leave their islet. In particular, the Netherlands imported gold, silver, copper, camphor, sake and soy. Everything changed when in 1853 an American fleet forced Japan to open further to the rest of the world.